Two of the greatest pleasures in life are good food and good music and myself and Caroline had the opportunity to combine both on a short trip to Granada. We had booked to see Suede, a rock group from the 90’s, at the Teatro de Generalife beside the Alhambra palace but it also gave us the opportunity to indulge ourselves in the world of tapas of which Granada is so famous for.

There are numerous accounts of how the custom of eating tapas came about, and as is often the case different regions of Spain claim to be the birthplace of the iconic tradition. The most logical account is that the word tapa comes from the verb tapar which means ‘to cover’ and in Spanish ‘tapa’ is the name for a lid. Barkeepers used to cover their customers drinks with a slice of bread and a small piece of cheese and ham to prevent dust and flies from settling in the glass. Hence ‘the tapa’ was born.

There are so many tapas bars to choose from in Granada, so it is a good idea to do some research to check out the best areas to visit and it is also a great way to discover the city.

Tapas bars will serve you a free tapa with every drink, sometimes you are able to choose, other times they will bring you the “the tapa of the house”. The tapas are generally a small, simple dish and can include for example, albondigas(meatballs), tortilla (Spanish omelette), paella, montaditos (one slice of bread on which a topping is placed), patatas bravas (spicy potatoes), estufados (stews) and the very popular croquettas (a deep-fried ball or roll made with meat or fish and a sauce with a crispy coating of breadcrumbs).

There is a wealth of choice from the modern, trendy tapas bar to the original, authentic ‘institutions’ such as Bodegas Castañeda which is exactly the type of atmosphere that we love. Here they are well known for their wines, cold meats (embutidos) and cheeses, the clientele come from all walks of life and are mainly locals. During the early evening until late the place is heaving and it feels like organized chaos but in fact it runs like a well-oiled machine with the bar tenders and waiters shouting out orders to each other as well as greeting and chatting with the locals and tourists alike...it really is like a piece of theatre!

Often in these types of establishments the waiters and bar staff have worked there for many years and proudly regard their job as a lifelong vocation. They are often real characters which further enhances the atmosphere and experience.

Other places worth mentioning on our visit were La Sitarilla, a slightly eccentric, family run restaurant filled with fake flowers and playing loud, traditional flamenco music where we enjoyed a delicious dish of snails in a tasty broth. 

Los Diamantes in Calle Navas is very much a Granada institution serving fresh seafood and shellfish (mariscos) to order and is standing room only. The fresh clams (almejas) and cold glass of vino went down a treat!!

Tabernilla del Darro, situated beside the River Darro in a beautiful old building, which formerly housed a well. Here we enjoyed a tasty after concert snack of tostados with smoked salmon and avocado.

Tapas are so much part of the social scene here. It’s a great way to spend time with friends and to explore the city by foot with a tasty treat around every corner.

We really love the combination of food, culture, and history …… and Granada has it all in abundance!

Que aproveche!

Malcolm