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30
Jul 2019
Our surprising round trip through Andalusia
Three years ago we were last in Andalusia at the invitation of our old neighbors from Huizen in Holland, so it was about time for a new visit!
This year we decided to go on a round trip to see more of beautiful Andalusia. The kids looked after each other and our 2 dogs at home in the Netherlands, so we could leave together safely. We flew to Málaga and were again able to enjoy the hospitality of Jan and Marita in their beautiful casa near Canillas de Aceituno. Two wonderful, pleasant and relaxing days we talked, walked in the campo, swam, lazed and enjoyed the Spanish cuisine, including Chivo (goat), the local specialty in restaurant La Sociedad, in Canillas de Aceituno and green curry with shrimps on the beach in Torre del Mar, my favorite resort.
On Saturday morning we said goodbye and left for Seville, where we arrived in the afternoon after a beautiful journey through vast fields of olive trees, sunflowers and here and there of course the Osborne bull. On the way we drove into a village for a nice cup of coffee in a real Spanish bar with super friendly people who didn't speak a word of English (and we spoke little Spanish). However, that is never a problem here, the people are so nice and helpful, you can also get along well with sign language !
In Seville we had a hotel right in the center near the Plaza de Toros. Pretty touristy, especially after the tranquility of Canillas de Aceituno and the surrounding area. Beautiful buildings left and right, this is clearly a city with a lot of history. Seville has always been the capital of the region during the various reigns and you can definitely see and feel that. The beautiful Plaza de España, the Giralda, Metropol Parasol, beautiful squares and parks, nice vistas in the Santa Cruz district, the promenade and the bridges over the Guadalquivir and there are horse-drawn carriages everywhere. In the evening we had a bite at Bar Eslava, highly recommended. Delicious tapas and salmorejo, the inland variant of the cold Andalusian gazpacho soup.
The next morning we visited the palace Real Alcazar; recommended by our friends because of the rising temperatures we first went into the garden and then wandered around inside. Such beautiful gardens with an enormous variety of trees, many different themes, fountains and water features. The palace itself is a facinating building with many beautiful spaces and mosaics, many Moorish influences, there is so much to see! They say that the Spanish royal family still regularly stays here in a restricted area.
Our next hotel was in Ecija, on the way to Cordoba. Beautiful hotel with a large bedroom, sitting room and bathroom, creaking wooden floors, beautiful fabrics, very hospitable owners and beautiful patio with swimming pool and sun loungers that we wanted to try. In the center we had a meal on a pleasantly busy square. Mart ordered Rabo de Toro, we saw this on the menu more than once, but never tried it before. It was very tasty and well worth trying, wonderfully soft stewed meat, looks a bit like our pulled pork.
The next day we went on to Cordoba, again a beautiful Andalusian city with a somewhat smaller center than Seville, with many beautiful and interesting buildings. We first admired the Mezquita, what a special mosque it is and then that Catholic church built in it! Very bizarre to see. The tower next to the Mezquita is also worth climbing, it has a magnificent view of the city and the surrounding area. In the afternoon we walked through the city including the Jewish neighborhood La Juderia and along the Templo Romano. After that we had a delicious paella at restaurant La Cuarta Cordoba, a great recommendation from Jan. On the way to the hotel, we admired the Puente Romano by night.
On Tuesday we left for Granada on the Ruta del Califato, or Caliphate route. This route is recommended because of the beautiful views with the Sierra Nevada in the background, driving from Cordoba. Very worthwhile indeed. Along the way you see many vines, fortresses and beautiful nature. Near Granada we follow the signs to Alpujarra, a route that lies on the south side of the Sierra Nevada. Our next destination, Cortijo Solera near Soportujar, is on this route.
This cortijo is located in the middle of the mountains with a dirt track to reach it. If wanted, the owner can pick you up at a small chapel before the dirt road starts. But Mart has quite a bit of mountain experience and wanted to do the ride himself with our rental car. The rental company would not have liked it, but the car did fine. Just to be sure however, we gave it a good wash
before returning the car;-). The complex itself is situated in a place with an amazing view of the mountains and one can even see the sea in the distance. We met a very nice couple from Hong Kong, with whom we had dinner together on the covered terrace, while enjoying the sunset on the mountains. Unbelievably beautiful.
The next day the route over the Alpujarra continued, across the mountains, past quaint white villages, waterfalls, huge forests, abysses, rugged mountains, hairpin bends and beautiful views. We stopped for a coffee on a village square in Treveléz, well known for its Jamon Iberico and hand-knotted rugs. Too bad we only had hand luggage with us, we will definitely take an empty suitcase with us next time. At the end of the route, now back to the sea close to the A44 along Guadalfeo, we saw a huge reservoir with miles and miles of beautiful blue water and fantastic bridges.
Finally, to end this beautiful trip, on our way to the airport we grabbed a terrace at a chiringuito on my favorite beach in Torre del Mar for, again, a delicious fish meal.
We had a great time, hasta la proxima!
Jacqueline and Martin Seelt
Friends of Second Home Andalusia