When we bought our home in Andalusia in 2008, we had settled in on our mountain for New Year’s Eve, ready to admire all the fireworks from the surrounding villages. At exactly midnight we stepped outside, cava and a Dutch oliebol in hand… but there was absolutely nothing to see. No bangs, no flashes, nothing at all. Clearly, we hadn’t prepared ourselves very well ;-)

The following year, we did things properly and celebrated La Noche Vieja in a pre-booked restaurant in Nerja, with all the trimmings. That evening we learned that New Year’s Eve in Spain is celebrated quite differently from what we were used to. Over the years, this is what we’ve learned:

Fireworks and  New Year’s swims

Spaniards generally don’t set off fireworks themselves. Firework displays are usually organised by the local council and take place in central locations such as the main square, promenade or – as in Nerja – iconic spots like the Balcón de Europa. This way, everyone can enjoy the show together without entire villages disappearing in smoke.


On New Year’s Day, many coastal towns also hold traditional New Year’s swims, often accompanied by music, hot chocolate and loud applause for the brave participants.

Red underwear

Around New Year, shop windows turn red. Lingerie stores, department stores and even small local shops are filled with red underwear. According to tradition, wearing red underwear on New Year’s Eve brings luck and love in the year ahead. 
If you really want to follow the rules, the red underwear should be taken off at midnight and burned. Needless to say, almost nobody actually does that.

12 uvas de la suerte

Just before midnight, everyone prepares twelve grapes – one for each stroke of the clock – to bring good luck for the coming year. The trick, as I’ve learned over time, is not to chew them but to swallow each grape quickly with a generous sip of cava. Otherwise, you simply won’t keep up. 
The uvas de la suerte are a beloved Spanish tradition dating back to 1909. Many people think it has religious origins, but in fact it’s purely economic. That year saw an enormous grape harvest, and a clever marketer decided to sell grapes as a ´good luck´ ritual for New Year’s Eve. And really, who wouldn’t want a bit of extra luck?

Money

Would you like the new year to be not only lucky but also financially prosperous? Then you’re supposed to put money in your shoes before midnight. Timing is important here. Since this isn’t particularly comfortable, many people now opt for a more practical version: eating the grapes with money in their pocket. Sounds like a better idea to us.

Travel

Those hoping to travel far or often in the new year are said to increase their chances by walking around the block with a suitcase at midnight. Superstitious people swear by it. In reality, it’s not very practical – especially if you’re also busy eating grapes, drinking cava and possibly dealing with red underwear. In all these years, I’ve never actually seen anyone do it.

Food & Celebrations

In Spain, no celebration is complete without good food. Over the years, we’ve grown used to enjoying a special Noche Vieja dinner with friends in a restaurant. In many places, dancing follows after midnight. One important thing to know: these dinners must be booked and paid for well in advance, as places are limited and demand is high.


What we secretly look forward to every year is what happens after dessert. No matter which restaurant we’re in, a party pack is handed out – the famous cotillón. Confetti, streamers, hats, funny glasses, noses, whistles and trumpets. Within minutes, a stylish restaurant turns into a full-blown carnival. Everyone joins in, no exceptions. Loud, chaotic and incredibly entertaining.

This year, we’re staying in “our” village and will miss the festivities in Nerja, with its spectacular fireworks around the Balcón de Europa and the live bands where hundreds of people sing and dance together. Instead, we’ll be keeping it small and cosy at El Refugio Bar Cultural in Canillas de Aceituno. By now, that feels just as much like home.

Muy Feliz y Prospero Año Nuevo!

Jan en Marita on behalf of the team of Second Home Andalusia.